The 24th annual Washington Sportsmen's Show is just around the corner and I am looking forward to seeing you at the show.  We will be in booth 444 in the Showplex. This is a corner booth located across from the Salmon & Steelhead Center. 

We will offer special pricing for fishing charter trips booked at the show.  Additionally, we will have a drawing for a $50.00 Starbucks card, which we will conduct at the end of this show. You don't have to be present to win.

Additionally, the Sportsmen's Show is your opportunity to research and even purchase new gear and services for the outdoors, whether it is for fishing, hunting, camping or more!  Manufacturers, vendors, and service companies will show off their new products for the upcoming year. 

As a full time sportfishing guide, I fish with a lot of people from all over the country.  Occasionally I’ll receive comments about the setups and gear we are using when fishing for steelhead and salmon. I’ll hear statements like “This barrel swivel seems really small.” or “I never would have thought we could catch such big fish with gear like this.”  It’s not the gear we use is always ultra-light, but instead is balanced in a manner they are not accustomed to.   

Gear anglers can take some important notes from the fly anglers.  Fly anglers ensure they have a rod and reel that match, matching the fly-line to the rod.  Further, matching the leaders and tippets to the rod and the size fly they use.  As a gear angler, balancing your rod, reel, line, and tackle is just as important to being more successful when fishing.  

The purpose of this article is to balance the system you use for fishing regardless of the type of fishing you do.  We will not get into the choices made for rods and reels, but rather the importance of balancing your entire system.  This applies to both spinning and baitcasting rods and reels.  

One of the most common mistakes I see on the water is mismatched rods and reels.  I am not talking about brand, but rather the size and weight.  Buying a rod and reel package is easy to do. However, many anglers prefer to choose a rod and then select a reel for the rod.  First you need to purchase the correct size rod for the fishing you plan on.  I have seen anglers using surf rods when drift fishing for Coho Salmon.  While the rod will certainly bring the fish into the boat or the bank, the rod is just too heavy to enjoy the fight of the fish or allow for the sensitivity needed for light biting fish.  

Rods - A balanced system begins with the fishing rod.  Fishing rods are labeled with information such as what line weight is recommended, the action of the rod and what the weight allowances are for the rod to perform as designed.  Since the rod is the foundation for your system, select the rod first.  This choice is based on the type of fishing you are doing, the action of the rod, and sensitivity.  As an example, if I am drift fishing for steelhead or salmon using eggs, or cheaters and yarn, I use an ultra-light rod such as G-Loomis GL3 - 1141S (spinning rod).  I have even used this same rod for casting small plugs and spinner baits.  This rod is 9'6" long and rated for 4 – 8 lb. line.  It is designed to handle lure weights of 1/16 - 3/8 ounces.  It has a slow action and is an ultra-light rod.

Understanding the action of the rod is important when choosing a rod.  Fast action rods flex in mostly in the tip section, while slow action rods flex toward the butt of the rod. There are also combinations of actions such as moderate-fast.  Slow action rods are forgiving and are great for varied distances.  Fast action rods put more force in your cast, allowing you more distance, but you can throw the bait from the hook. 

Many of you might think a G-Loomis 1141S ultra-light rod is too light to fish for 10 – 30 lb. salmon and steelhead.  But I assure you this rod will handle these fish with no problem.  I fish out of a boat the majority of time, which allows me to move the boat with the fish. When you fish an area you can move around to fight the fish, using lighter rods will offer more sensitivity for feeling those light bites.  If you are a bank angler the majority of the time you can probably use the same rod, but you may need to adjust the weight of your mainline.  If you use a 10lb. mainline in a boat, use a 12lb. mainline for the bank.  The rod will handle the fish.  You just need a line weight that will help keep the fish in the hole or area you are fishing.

Reels - Next, select the reel to fit the rod.  Again, there are many things that effect this decision, but a couple of the most important aspects to consider will be the drag system and the amount of line the reel will hold.  

Quality reels also have labels describing the line weight and how many yards or meters of line can fit on the spool. IE. lb.(mm)–yds.(m) 6(0.25)-210(190) 8(0.28)-170(155)

With the example above you can get 170 yards of 8lb test line on this reel.  When choosing a reel to match a fishing rod, it needs to balance with the rod and it needs to have the capacity to hold enough line.  

Consider this:  Many anglers will never have a fish pay out 140 yards of line.  But we may get hung up on a rock, a tree, or a bush and break off 30 yards of line.  You do this a couple of times in a single outing and you only had 140 yards of line to begin with, your now down to 80 yards of line. So don’t choose a reel which is too small for the rod. Likewise if the reel is too large it will not feel balanced, causing angler fatigue after hours of fishing.  

Using the rod example above, I use a matched spinning reels with instant anti reverse in a 2500 series size.  Reels which are the same size as a 2500 series reel may not all be labeled as 2500 series.  Reels are labeled differently with every manufacturer, so make sure you do your research before buying.  

When I use baitcasting rods for pulling plugs, I use lighter rods than most anglers. Make sure the rod will allow the lure to perform in the manner it was designed, as well as handle the size of fish you are targeting.  As an example, I’ll use an 8’6” fast action medium power rod matched with a 5500 series baitcasting reel with instant anti reverse.  

Again, not all reel manufacturers use the same method of labeling baitcasting reels.  

Here are some tips for selecting a reel;

• Find several reels that fit your criteria.

• Does the reel fit in your hand comfortably? Is it too large?  If the reel feels too big, choose the next size down

• Remember, you will fish more comfortably if the reel fits your hand.

• Gear ratios - To explain it simply, the higher the ratio, the faster the retrieve of the bait without racing the handle on the reel and wrenching your wrist.

• The most often used gear ratios are 5.3 and 6.0 to 1. This means the spool turns 5.3 times every time you turn the handle of the reel 360 degrees (one time).balance5a.JPG  
  

• Put the reel on the rod you plan on using.  The rod and reel should feel balanced in the hand.  The weight of the reel should not overcome the length of the rod.  Literally, the balance point should be just in front of the reel seat, near the front cork.

Mainline - Matching your mainline to your rod and reel is the next step in the balanced system.  There is a wide variety fishing lines on the market.  Brand, quality, features, and reputation will have a bearing on your choice.  Regardless of your choice, match the line to your rod and reel. Often anglers choose a line that is too heavy for the rod, reel, or terminal tackle.  Line weight is important to how much line you will spool and how the line works with the rod and the terminal tackle.

Even though a rod may be labeled with a line weight of 6 – 10lbs., you can usually adjust this a little.  As an example: If you use a rod that is labeled: 9'6" 4–8  1/16 - 3/8  Slow Action Ultra-Light, your heaviest line used does not have to be 8lb, even though the line weight listed on this rod states 4-8 lb.. You can use 10lb mono or maybe even 12lb mono without hindering the performance of the rod.  However it can affect how much line you can spool on your reel.   

Choosing a mainline can be a daunting task.  Should you use fluorocarbon, braided line, or just plain monofilament?  There are many things to consider with mainline.  Find something you are confident in and compliments your balanced rod and reel.  I use Izorline “XXX Super Co-Polymer" for both my ultra-light spinning reels and my baitcasting plug rods.  As far as color of the line, I use the Hi-Vis Yellow my spinning reels and Smoke for my baitcasting rods.  For the baitcasting rods I use for King Salmon and sturgeon fishing, I use 65lb. Power Pro braided line in green.  

Now that you have balanced your rod, reel and mainline, continue the balanced system with the leaders, lures, and terminal tackle used.  When I use a mainline that is less than 17lbs., I use leaders at least 2 lbs. lighter than the mainline.  This allows for break-offs below the terminal tackle.  It also prevents hinging and wrapping commonly associated with using mismatched leaders and mainlines.  

However, depending on the area and species of fish targeted, you may use a heavier leader than the mainline.  This is usually for trolling plugs and other gear where casting is not an option.  

Terminal Tackle - I am usually surprised to see what I pull from the river.  I see terminal tackle, such as hooks, snap swivels, barrel swivels and lures of all different sizes.  Usually it is oversized.  Breaking off and losing tackle is a fact of fishing.  However, using the right size terminal tackle with a properly matched rod, reel, and mainline will reduce lost gear and you will enjoy your time on the water more, and actually increase your odds in catching more fish.  

Given the minor weight difference of your mainline and leader, using a barrel swivel that is too big, will cause hinging and wrapping.  Hinging is where your leader hinges back over the mainline as you cast.  Wrapping occurs when leader now wraps itself around the mainline, keeping the bait or lure from working properly.  

As with fly-fishing, the leader should be an extension of the mainline.  The barrel swivel should not cause a disruption from the mainline to the leader.  It should allow a flow, just as if the mainline reduce itself from one weight to the next without the barrel swivel.  This is how leaders are made for fly anglers.  The leaders are heavier in the butt, like the mainline and reduce to a lighter weight line at the tip for the fly.

Barrel swivels, snap swivels and other terminal tackle have a much higher breaking strength than you think.  The size of the mainline does have some bearing on the size of swivels used, but for the most part, you can use much smaller swivels than you think.  I use Vision Hooks and Tackle and when drift fishing and even pulling plugs, I use a #10 roller barrel swivel has a 48lb. static breaking strength.  While the #10 snap swivels have a 20lb. static breaking strength.  

Breaking strength is based on a constant strain until it breaks.  This does not mean a #10 roller barrel swivel will break with a 48lb. fish on the line.  Your rod, reel and terminal tackle function as a dynamic system, not static.  Because the rod flexes and the drag is set to allow the fish to take line if necessary as the fish moves through the water, you can handle those big fish with this size tackle.  

The amount of weight and the size of hooks or lures also play a factor in balancing your gear.  Do not use too much weight!  Regardless of the fishing method, most anglers use too much weight to get the job done.  The water speed and depth in addition to the type of lure or bait fished is a good indication of how much weight should use. When I am drift fishing I like to use just enough weight to keep it on the bottom.  I like to feel a light ticking of the weight across the bottom.  If I change locations I change my weight to match the conditions of the body of water. 

Lures come with the correct size hook.  However, you may have to switch out a treble hook for a single hook to meet the regulations in your state or a particular body of water.  Make sure you use the right size hook when doing this. The new hook should not hinder the action of the lure.  

Hook size for fishing bait such as eggs and shrimp are equally important.  Using an oversized hook can be a mistake anglers want to avoid. To help with hook size choice, consider these things; where are you fishing? What species are you fishing for? Does the hook match the leader and mainline?  

Do a test yourself.  Tie up several leaders with hooks of different sizes, including corkies, cheaters, or whatever you use for leaders.  Three foot leaders will be long enough for this test.  Tie a weight to the other end of the leader and put it in a hot tub, bathtub, or something you can drop the leader into and see what kind of buoyancy you get with various size hooks and various size cheaters.  After finding the right combination, put on a cluster of eggs or sand-shrimp or whatever you might use for bait where you fish.  What does it do now?

The key is to allow the bait to float freely and naturally, or in the case of a lure, to action the way it is intended to.  If you change out a hook on a lure and you use something too big, it may not work the way it was designed.  

Balance your system and you will definitely see the reward!

Well it that time of year.  Thanksgiving is here and Christmas is now just around the corner. We are having very cold weather here in the Pacific Northwest.  As I write this it is 10 degrees outside!

With freezing temperatures fishing can be challenging.  The boat ramps are very icy, your guides on your fishing rod freeze practcially every cast.  But it is hard to resist the urge to get to the river and fish because we know winter steelhead are coming into  the river and any day now it will turn on.  There is just something about steelhead fishing that is so hard to resist. 

From time to time I am asked what I do to winterize my boat.  My reply is, "I fish."  While I do not need to prepare my engines for a winter sleep.  I do have to prepare my boat for freezing weather, and you should too. 

If you have a kicker engine, with a hot box, you should clear out the water in the inlet hose to the hot box.  I installed a T connector with a vacuum plug in the middle of this hose.  This lets me blow out water from the hose without disconnecting it.  Washdown systems are priceless, but you have to disconnect the inlet and outlet hoses to the pump, so water in the diaphram will drain and not freeze.  Frozen water in the washdown pump will crack the pump and that can cost you. 

When you are fishing, ice build up on your line guides will damage your line if left unchecked.  So make sure you keep the ice off your guides.  Dress in layers and keep warm.  I don't wear gloves when I fish, so I change the hand I am using to hold my rod every time I cast.  I keep my other hand in my pocket with a toasty handwarmer.  Disposable handwarmers are invaluable.  Save some money and buy a box of them in the summer.

Be careful at the boat ramp.  Boat trailers with carpet bunks have a tendancy to freeze your boat to the trailer.  This can be frustrating!  When Spring returns you should consider replacing the carpet bunks with a composite bunk.  These do not freeze to the boat of your boat as easily.  You never know what you might find when you get to the boat ramp.  You might need extra help putting in and taking out.  So make sure you have your snow chains with you. 

Stay warm and enjoy this time of year.  Winter Steelheading can bring memories to last a lifetime.

I hope you have a Happy Thanksgiving.  Enjoy the time with your friends and family.  I look forward to seeing you on the water. 

Reading water seems like a daunting task.  What are the fishing experts and writers talking about?  At some point in our fishing endeavors, we have all started with the concept of reading water.  Depending on how it is explained, we either understand the information quickly or we continue to struggle. 

Many anglers fish areas repeatedly, some with success and some without.  There are areas anglers congregate simply because of access or the fact other anglers are there, so it must be a good place to catch fish. 

While some anglers may be content with fishing like this, you should learn how to read water.  Imagine fishing an area you have never been to.  When you arrive there are no other anglers, so you don’t have a baseline to fish the area.  You could just start fishing and hope for the best, and it is not to say there would not be fishing moving or holding in the stretch of water you are fishing. 

The purpose of reading water to is to be more efficient in fishing and creating more opportunity of hooking fish, rather than standing in the water waving a big stick.  In reading water, we eliminate 90% of the less productive water and fish the 10% of the water that hold 90% of the fish.  This does not mean that fish never move, hold or get caught in these areas we eliminate.  It just means we increase our ratio of hook fish by fishing the best water. 

Look at the area of water you intend to fish, including the features that area of water displays, and predict were the fish will be found within this area of water. Identify areas that are more likely to hold fish and focus your efforts here, rather than fishing unproductive areas of river.

Since this is a blog article, I will not cover every aspect of reading water, but instead focus on a few of the most important features. 

Edges - Edges can be areas of current break due to depth change, structure influence or light contrast such as shade from trees and brush lining a bank.  Steelhead and salmon do not simply hold or move just anywhere.  They also do not necessarily use the same features as they move about the river. 

Fish look for protection from birds of prey, carnivorous animals, and us.  Edges offer cover as they hold or move through the river.  If the sun comes out and an edge is created by heavy shadows, fish the inside edge of the shadow.  If you are fishing a depth change, say a drop off.  Literally fish the edge of the drop off before you just start fishing the deep hole.

Seams - Seams are distinguished areas of current break where the fast water and slower water meet.  Seams also provide cover for fish as well; given the fast water edge makes it difficult to see into the water. 

Fish the inside soft water portion of the seam, allowing your bait or offering to move toward or past the fish at a slower pace giving more time for the fish to strike. 

Tail-outs - Tail-outs are the result of shallow water at the end of a pool where the speed of the current picks up just below it.

Tail-outs can be very productive. Fish the entire tail-out.  Look for substructure in the tail-out such as large rocks, trees and tree roots.  Fish will move into a tail-out from faster water and look to rest. 

Pockets - Pockets are usually associated with swift water and structure.  These are areas of quieter, not dead still water that may be found in front of, behind, or beside large exposed and subsurface rocks. Look for a uni-directional current, not a swirling eddy.

Pockets are often small areas, but can be numerous depending on the area of the river you are fishing.  Do not overlook pockets as it provides water circulation for the fish, while the speed of the current behind the rock is slower allowing the fish to rest. 

How many features do you see in this area?

It is really important to get out on the river consistently.  Being on the river often and throughout the year will keep you apprised of the changes.  You may fish an area on year with a particular set of features and the next year that stretch of water does not have the same features. The cubic feet per second and the gauge height of a river can also change features in the span of a few days to a week.  If you want to understand why you are seeing certain features on the river, get on the river when the water is at its lowest in height.  This is most often in the dry summer months. 

I hope this information helps.  Get on the river. But most importantly learn how to read water and look at new water.  This will help you be more successful and get away from the same spots.

Waterfowl general season is just a few days away.  Are you ready?  Have you really gone through all of your gear?  If not, it is time to check your gear now.  If you don’t, inevitably you will forget something. 

It is easy to prepare for big game hunting, as it usually requires several or more days in the field. Lists are created, checked, modified and checked again.  I wish we could say we do the same for our waterfowl hunting.  For the most part waterfowl hunting is taken for granted because we can go on short notice and often close to home.  Many hunters hit the duck blind, having forgotten a piece of equipment, or their equipment in disrepair. 

So what should be done to prepare for the waterfowl season?  Think back to last season.  What did you tell yourself you would do different this season?  Maybe making a jerk string for a set of decoys, or lengthening your decoy cords, or changing them out altogether.  Well now is the time to do that.

When I complete my pre-season check I always start with my shotguns and personal equipment.  Then I move on to the decoys, followed by the blinds. 

Let’s start with the shotgun.  I know hunters who failed to clean their shotgun after the last trip of the previous season, only to pull out the gun nine months later to find surface rust, or the choke is seized.  Hopefully you have been hitting the trap range this past summer and early fall and your shotgun is in working order.  If you have not done this, strip down your gun, removing the choke and ensure it is clean, lubricated and proper working order.  If you use a sling, make sure you inspect it for rotting threads, mold and dirt.  Slings should be clean, and anchor points should be lubricated. 

Check last year’s ammunition and order new ammunition for the season. I have hunted with people who showed up for a hunt with ammunition, which had rust around the brass head.  If you hunt in in areas with saltwater, corrosion is definitely a concern.  Do not take a chance using ammunition in this condition. 

I would suggest ordering ammunition for the entire season now.  When the season gets rolling you may find it difficult to find ammunition, so early orders will ensure you have ammunition for the entire season.  Look into ordering your shotgun ammunition by the case; you will save money over single box prices. 

Next to the shotgun, I believe personal gear is the most important items to prepare for the upcoming season.  You need to be comfortable when hunting.  If you are wet and cold you will not enjoy yourself as much.  Check your waders.  If there was a leak in the waders last season it is time to get a new pair.  At the very least fix the leak!  Wash your jackets, hats, face masks, and other clothing items.  Scent is not an issue when duck hunting, but you do not want to get dressed only to find your jacket smells like mildew.  Stinky clothing can be quite distracting while you are hunting. 

One of the most annoying things is a hunter showing up to the blind with a bad duck call.  Make sure your duck calls are in working order.  The only way to do this is to practice.  Duck hunting legend, Buck Gardner likes to call it the “10,000 quack tune-up.”  I think this pre season tune up is important.  Getting the duck calls out now and practicing will ensure the call is in tune and you get into your rhythm more quickly when you hit the duck blind.  Many duck call manufacturers will re-tune your duck call for free.  Just pay for the postage and you will have a call tuned the way it is supposed to be.   Don’t forget to keep your duck calls clean during the season.  I like to use distilled water to clean my duck calls.  Remove the barrel from the insert and clean out any debris.  Wash the call thoroughly and let it air dry overnight.

Now check your decoys.  You should take a good look at your decoys, checking for fading or chipped paint.  If you need to add some paint to liven them up, now is the time.  Maybe it is time for new decoys altogether.  An important aspect of the decoy is the decoy cord.  Make sure you have decoy cords long enough for the area you hunt.  You do not want your decoys floating away, just after you set up in the blind.  It is not uncommon to do a quick fix on a decoy cord in the field and not replace or repair it properly later.  If you don’t fix these cords properly, when the new season gets rolling you have a problematic decoy cord. 

I hunt a lot of tidal estuaries, requiring more weight than most hunters, so I use a combination of Greenhead Gear Keel Grabber weights, and ACE anchors.  These anchors have surgical tubing attached to them to offer flex when your anchor hangs up.  These stretch cords become weathered and need to be replaced so they don’t break in the field.  Check the decoy cord crimps or knots and make sure they will hold for the season.  If you use the Greenhead Gear quick fix decoy cord, make sure it is not weathered.  If you use gang rigs for decoys, make sure the quick clips are clean and serviceable. 

For those of you who use a wind powered Wind-Duk, these have ball bearings which allow them to spin freely.  These ball bearings must be oiled before the season and periodically during the season.    

If you hunt out of a fixed blind, make sure your blind bag is cleaned out from the previous season and re-stocked for the upcoming season.  If you hunt out of a boat, clean it out from top to bottom.  Restock it with your safety gear and equipment and touch up on the camo paint.  Oil hinges, check the bilge pump, check the battery(s) water level, check every foot of the anchor lines and make sure your safety equipment is in good working condition.   Have you checked your flares?  Flares have an expiration date and should be replaced when out of date.  Make sure you have at least on PFD per person.  You must also have at least one type IV throwable PFD for any boat 16 feet or longer.  Make sure your PFD’s are clean and usable.  It is easy for PFD’s to sit in the duck boat and mildew and rot.  If the stitching rots, the PFD will not be reliable. 

I want to emphasis the importance of having a good first aid kit.  Aside from the standard items in a first aid kit, I like to add extra 4x4 gauze pads, and several rolls of cohesive bandages.  I also carry at least one blood clot product, in case of a severe bleeding injury.  If you use dogs for waterfowl hunting you should have a good first aid kit for specifically for the dog.  This kit should also have extra 4x4 gauze pads and a couple of cohesive bandages.  I also include a full bottle of saline solution to get foreign objects out of their eyes.    

Check the camouflage for your blind or boat.  The biggest problem I see with duck blinds is the lack of concealment.  Whether it is raffia grass or netting, most blinds I see could use more.  Do you need to add some grass or camo to your blind?  A blind should actually blind your movement from the ducks.  Duck hunters have a tendency to look at the blind from the ground level. Ducks fly overhead and look down at our decoy spread.  So look at your blind from the top to make sure you have grassed it well.  If you hunt from a permanent blind, make repairs now.  Check for rotting boards, exposed nails or screws, and re-grass it if necessary. 

If you use a portable blind, set it up and make sure it is not mildewing.  If it has swing doors, make sure they do not squeak when you open them.  Look the whole blind over and make sure it is ready to hunt.  If you hunt out of a boat, set up your boat blind and inspect it carefully.  Do you need to add more grass, camo netting, or natural vegetation?   One of the most crucial aspects of camouflaging your blind is the color variations of the blind.  If you hunt in the middle of a barley field, then you can have a more even color throughout your blind with subtle highs and lows.  But if your blind is next to a bramble patch or your boat is next to the bank on a river, your camouflage should have more drastic color changes to blend better with the natural vegetation.  If you are using a light color raffia grass on your blind, but you are sitting next to dark vegetation, your blind will stand out.  Mix it up!

The last thing I will touch on with camouflage is the use of UV brighteners.  UV Brighteners are used on many products.  You do not want UV brighteners on your clothing, gear or blind.  If you are not sure about an item, check it.  The ideal light source to check for brighteners is a 350 BLB fluorescent black light.  You can buy this at a hardware store.  Make sure it is dark to reveal the brighteners. For more information on how to check for brighteners, go to Atsko/Sno-Seal, Inc. website.  They have a lot of information on UV brighteners. 

Hopefully these tips will get you thinking about your gear for the upcoming season and allow you enough time to prepare opening day.

-Doug

We have a new website up.  Our new website has the same feel but with more content and information for you.  You will notice we have a new Video Page.  This will contain "how to" videos, including techniques and setups.  We will also include fishing Video from various trips. 

We have also updated the site to inlcude not only our Blog, but social networking links which will also have short feeds of our Blogs.  So if you use Facebook or Twitter, then you can follow us there!

Our new website will allow you to view content on smart phones such as droid, blackberry, and the iphone.  So contacting us or viewing content will be easier. 

I would like to urge you again to go to www.jordanwlee.com for your website design ideas. Jordan is an 2009 Emmy Award winning website designer.  Yes they have website design as part of the Emmy's.  He will work with you to create the website of your dreams and communicate your message to the world, with the all the right stuff a website needs to be seen on the internet.  

Doug 

We have all reeled in our gear and over-reeled our swivel into the first eye on the rod.  For some unfortunate anglers this first eye on the rod has been damaged, or at the very least you are now trying to dislodge your snap or barrel swivel from the first eye. 

Here is a technique many professional fishing guides use to keep the first eye on the rod from being damaged by over reeling.  Use beads to protect the first eye on your rod from the terminal tackle.  The bead strikes the eye in a manner that is so much less destructive.

Beads are sold at most all places fishing tackle is sold.  Depending on the size of your fishing rod you might use beads ranging in size from 4mm to 6mm.  As an example, I use 5mm beads for my G-Loomis GL3 1141s rods.  Buy a selection of beads in different colors.  The different color helps you select the right size quickly when on the water and re-tying your setup. 

Good luck fishing!

       
       

Do you fish from a boat and tangle up your line with that of your fishing partners? Have you wondered how fishing guides on the river can fish so many guys without having a tangled mess on every drift? 

Well here is the key.  Use rods and reels that are all the same.  This includes using the same weight line, leaders, swivels, and weight.  If you decide that the weight you are using on a particular drift is not enough and you decide to use a heavier weight, then everyone in the boat needs to change. 

Having the same setup keeps all of the lines moving through the water at the same rate, preventing tangled lines with anglers in your own boat. 

If you think about it, anglers who have their own boat also have several rods and reels.  So when you buy your rods and reels, instead of buying different weight rods, buy 3 or 4 of the same weight and length. 

As an example, I run 6 spinning rods and 6 baitcasters.  All of the spinning rods are the same and setup the same.  If someone breaks off and I hand them another rod it feels the same as the one they were using.  Since I usually use the baitcasters for pulling plugs, I have a couple of rods longer in length to allow for the offset of the rods.  But I still use the same weight line on these longer rods.